FREE Female seeds. #### FREE ####

[HGO]

Is it not induced by painting colloidal silver on the same branch.no stress.?

It is stress but not environmental stress which is what typically induces hermies with plants from feminized seed.
so by testing the seeds as adult (flowering) plants and subjecting them to various different stressful situations
like changing light cycles and periods of no watering can help weed out the ones that turn hermie easily

 

[R3za92]

Today is day 28 after flip. First spray of STS on night of flip, and second spray 5 nights later. Both female plants started producing lots of balls on day 17 ( 11 days ago). Few balls have opened in last few days, but no visible pollen, even under 60x loupe. Plants are mated in tent with female partner, however nil sign of pollination, as all female receptor plant pistils are still white. Been collecting and drying balls in a paper bag. Crushing balls when dry and brushing on female plants trying to force pollination. Google is devoid on any meaningful information on subject of zero pollen production . Canna chat rooms advise it sometimes just happens. Environment in both tents is fine. Separate strains from separate breeders, so issue is not strain specific. Some normal leaf burn visible on reversed plants from STS. Any experiences/views on why zero pollen production? View attachment 23749View attachment 23750View attachment 23754View attachment 23752

If your using the old forum recipe for sts the final solution is too weak by about x10.

Gday Reynard how's the tribe?
Just out of curiosity are you using pentahydrous or anhydrous sodium thiosulate?
I don't know shit about it but have read dilution rates and application frequency can effect results.
May be Buzzo might chime in with some advice, he's been playing feminised a while now.✌

Pentahydrate and anhydrous do the same. Penta just has extra water molecules so you need to use more in the solution to achieve the same MOL level in solution.

 

[Old fox]

If your using the old forum recipe for sts the final solution is too weak by about x10.


Pentahydrate and anhydrous do the same. Penta just has extra water molecules so you need to use more in the solution to achieve the same MOL level in solution.

Nah, I'm using a Canna specific STS solution from USA, which worked well for me previously. A small plant successfully produced about 250 FEM seeds.

 

[R3za92]

Nah, I'm using a Canna specific STS solution from USA, which worked well for me previously. A small plant successfully produced about 250 FEM seeds.

Yeah but what’s the recipe on it. There’s a few getting around. A group of mates and I recently did an experiment on sts strengths and application times recently on a few strains that didn’t want to drop pollen last few tries. Application times don’t matter as much we found but solution strength does.

This is our results.
Visible pollen coming off the plant, no need to harvest balls and pollinate female if they’re in the same area.

Here’s what I got from having my reverse plant in with my females. Haves shucked more than a few buds yet but I’m already up to a few hundred.

 

[Old fox]

Yeah but what’s the recipe on it. There’s a few getting around. A group of mates and I recently did an experiment on sts strengths and application times recently on a few strains that didn’t want to drop pollen last few tries. Application times don’t matter as much we found but solution strength does.

This is our results.View attachment 23772
Visible pollen coming off the plant, no need to harvest balls and pollinate female if they’re in the same area.

Here’s what I got from having my reverse plant in with my females. Haves shucked more than a few buds yet but I’m already up to a few hundred. View attachment 23773View attachment 23774View attachment 23775View attachment 23776

My initial reverse strain produced the goods at the recommended dilution rate. Not an issue in this case. Lots of other variables may have impacted

 

[Old fox]

. The video details application/dilution rates and times in plants lifecycle for STS spray application. 20ml spray per plant, with first application on night of flip to 12/12.

 

[R3za92]

. The video details application/dilution rates and times in plants lifecycle for STS spray application. 20ml spray per plant, with first application on night of flip to 12/12.

Yeah the recipe for sts he lists in that video is much stronger than the recipes found elsewhere. It’s the strength of the sts solution (measured in mole) that’s important we found over a few experiments. We generally found if you have to collect the balls and crush them to get pollen the sts solution isn’t strong enough.

We also tested different application time. 7 days before flip, at flip (day 0), 7 days after performed the best producing the most male flowers to maturity the quickest but 0,7,14 and 7,14,21 still worked and produced, self dropped, viable pollen just took longer into flower to do so.

 

[Old fox]

. Guy in this video sounds arrogant, but he's representing Greenpoint seeds. At least that's the title he's used on video. His experience highlights reversing 22 plants, yet only seeing visible pollen on 2 plants. So he collects the seeds and applies them ( and pollen) manually for the other 20 plants, around week 3. He states that's quite normal, at least it is for him.

 

[R3za92]

. Guy in this video sounds arrogant, but he's representing Greenpoint seeds. At least that's the title he's used on video. His experience highlights reversing 22 plants, yet only seeing visible pollen on 2 plants. So he collects the seeds and applies them ( and pollen) manually for the other 20 plants, around week 3. He states that's quite normal, at least it is for him.

I didn’t watch the whole video just skimmed through it. But yeah manual harvesting the pollen seems to be the norm but so does using weaker sts solutions. This is the original recipe i recieved that the group started modifying to achieve our results.

Forum recipe
“Preparation of STS:

First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.



Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.



Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water

Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) (3.9g pentahydrate ) stirred into 500ml distilled water



The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.



The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).



This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.



Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.



Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.”

We found that diluting the stock solution by x10 wasn’t needed and actually produced substantially less pollen.

So far we are 5 for 5 on natural pollen drops for the strains we’ve ran with the higher strength sts and haven’t had to do any manual pollination and that includes a haze and skunk that had previously had an attempted reversal with no pollen drop.

 

[R3za92]

. Guy in this video sounds arrogant, but he's representing Greenpoint seeds. At least that's the title he's used on video. His experience highlights reversing 22 plants, yet only seeing visible pollen on 2 plants. So he collects the seeds and applies them ( and pollen) manually for the other 20 plants, around week 3. He states that's quite normal, at least it is for him.

Also him representing greenpoint isn’t a big rep seeing as gu is a bit of a dick with less than ideal business practices. Case and point him joining up with hiesinfraud for green points original release of fem beans (and what bunch of duds some of those where)

 

[seeded]

Yeah the recipe for sts he lists in that video is much stronger than the recipes found elsewhere. It’s the strength of the sts solution (measured in mole) that’s important we found over a few experiments. We generally found if you have to collect the balls and crush them to get pollen the sts solution isn’t strong enough.

We also tested different application time. 7 days before flip, at flip (day 0), 7 days after performed the best producing the most male flowers to maturity the quickest but 0,7,14 and 7,14,21 still worked and produced, self dropped, viable pollen just took longer into flower to do so.

Nice one with the experimentation. Work and results like that, especially freely shared, are invaluable for the community.

 

[Old fox]

I didn’t watch the whole video just skimmed through it. But yeah manual harvesting the pollen seems to be the norm but so does using weaker sts solutions. This is the original recipe i recieved that the group started modifying to achieve our results.

Forum recipe
“Preparation of STS:

First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.



Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.



Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water

Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) (3.9g pentahydrate ) stirred into 500ml distilled water



The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.



The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).



This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.



Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.



Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.”

We found that diluting the stock solution by x10 wasn’t needed and actually produced substantially less pollen.

So far we are 5 for 5 on natural pollen drops for the strains we’ve ran with the higher strength sts and haven’t had to do any manual pollination and that includes a haze and skunk that had previously had an attempted reversal with no pollen drop.

Yeah, my stock ( undiluted) solution is about 12 months old, and hasn't been stored in the fridge, so may be some degradation of product. So, if you didn't dilute X 10, what dilution rate did you actually use?

 

[R3za92]

Yeah, my stock ( undiluted) solution is about 12 months old, and hasn't been stored in the fridge, so may be some degradation of product. So, if you didn't dilute X 10, what dilution rate did you actually use?

I just make the part a and b as the recipe says and mixed them. That was my final solution that I sprayed. I make up 500ml of a and b at a time and just mix them as needed. I also completely saturate the plant

 

[Old fox]

I just make the part a and b as the recipe says and mixed them. That was my final solution that I sprayed. I make up 500ml of a and b at a time and just mix them as needed. I also completely saturate the plant

So you didn't dilute at all, just full strength A and B ? I'm drenching my plants, with 50 to 70ml per application/plant. Mine is diluted at a ratio of 9:1 with distilled water Pat and K9 are using much less volume spray ( under 10ml per plant) and successfully producing pollen.

 

[R3za92]

So you didn't dilute at all, just full strength A and B ? I'm drenching my plants, with 50 to 70ml per application/plant. Mine is diluted at a ratio of 9:1 with distilled water Pat and K9 are using much less volume spray ( under 10ml per plant) and successfully producing pollen.

Correct. No dilution. I drench the plants because I’m paying fuck all for the sts. (Like $50 for all the ingredients with the silver thiosulfate being the hardest to source) so don’t care about wastage if I get strong pollen drops. I’m not really interested in harvesting and crushing balls. I/the group wanted the pollen to drop and spread like a normal male would.

 

[R3za92]

So you didn't dilute at all, just full strength A and B ? I'm drenching my plants, with 50 to 70ml per application/plant. Mine is diluted at a ratio of 9:1 with distilled water Pat and K9 are using much less volume spray ( under 10ml per plant) and successfully producing pollen.

I also keep the a and b seperate until use.

 

[R3za92]

Nice one with the experimentation. Work and results like that, especially freely shared, are invaluable for the community.

The information is out there. We (and by we I mean one of the guys in the group) just compiled it and verified the results. We had a hunch it had more to do with the strength over schedule and the research and experiment supported that hypothesis.

I believe most of the info is buried on icmag but I’m not 100%

 

[Old fox]

The information is out there. We (and by we I mean one of the guys in the group) just compiled it and verified the results. We had a hunch it had more to do with the strength over schedule and the research and experiment supported that hypothesis.

I believe most of the info is buried on icmag but I’m not 100%

How many days after flip to 12/12 are you seeing obvious pollen? My first round was 23 days, which aligns to a commercial breeder timeframe of optimal time for cross pollination. Long flowering sativas will be different.

 

[Old fox]

The information is out there. We (and by we I mean one of the guys in the group) just compiled it and verified the results. We had a hunch it had more to do with the strength over schedule and the research and experiment supported that hypothesis.

I believe most of the info is buried on icmag but I’m not 100%

Using seeds or clones? My seed run reversed fine, current reversal run is from clones. They were from mature plants who had shown obvious pre-sex.

 

[R3za92]

How many days after flip to 12/12 are you seeing obvious pollen? My first round was 23 days, which aligns to a commercial breeder timeframe of optimal time for cross pollination. Long flowering sativas will be different.

Depends on the spray schedule. For -7,0,7 it was 14-21 days before pollen started falling and about 23-25 days before full blown jizztacular like the photo above. (The pollen released in the photo was from simply flicking the stem)

For 0,7,14 it was a little longer about 20-24 before pollen started to drop and day 30km ish before full jizz fest with 7,14,21 being even further along and some female flowers forming as well unlike the other applications.

Using seeds or clones? My seed run reversed fine, current reversal run is from clones. They were from mature plants who had shown obvious pre-sex.

Both. The other 2 guys used seed stock. Mine was clones with the kimbo having been cloned now for over 3 years (that’s about when I received it as a clone)