Smaller particles have a bigger surface area and will neutralize acidic soil faster but larger particles will be slower release. You may want to use a little of both. This is an article about lime size but I believe the same would apply to your shell grit. https://library.dpird.wa.gov.au/cgi...r=1&article=1025&context=journal_agriculture4as a soil amendment should be fine the way it is but coffee grinding it as a flour wouldn't hurt either , when i use oyster shell i always used it as a flour , always figured the smaller it was the easier it was for soil life to consume it
Based on that, I think I'll grind it down. Being a seasonal crop and it possibly taking years for lime (shell?) To completely dissolve, it makes sense to grind it to a smaller particle size and have more rapid results. I can always add more finely milled shell to my topdress if I suspect calcium deficiency later on I guess? (From dissolving and being washed away)Smaller particles have a bigger surface area and will neutralize acidic soil faster but larger particles will be slower release. You may want to use a little of both. This is an article about lime size but I believe the same would apply to your shell grit. https://library.dpird.wa.gov.au/cgi...r=1&article=1025&context=journal_agriculture4
I’ve grown many plants in the ground with nothing. Not even water except rain.
In the bush. Used to be how I grew as a youngster.
I know that doesn’t answer your real question but I’d say yes you can.
Even now I do very little after planted. Probably less in a grow than many do in a week.
Good soil, water and of a deficiency shows I can think about adding something.
I really think indoors plants seem to be much more fussy about getting everything right, outdoors more forgiving.
I add potassium sulphate, soft rock phosphate, fish meal and insect Frass... Which all contain P and KQuestion for the super/living soil folks;
Does anyone get through a whole grow (ideally outdoors to be relevant to myself) with only using water?
Or do you find yourself (whether needing to or not), giving additional top dress, teas etc throughout?
And I guess if you have done that but also supplemented PK during flowering, noticed any dramatic improvements?
I have no qualms about supplementing, but from reading it seems the whole super/living soil thing is 'supoosed' to be water only as it contains everything a growing plant requires
The super soil mixes have (ample?) P & K (actually, I'm not sure where high amounts of K come from, guano gots the P, but not much specifically high K in the mixes. The kelp meal seems the best with ranges from 2-4K, so is 'that' the K aspect? (Side note, got the kelp meal tonight, so that sits alongside the manure, guano, blood & bone & seamungus, will be getting the shell grit and Lucerne on the weekend before the last spendings next week of perlite, worm castings, gypsum, loam (want some clay in there to help retain nutrients) and the seasol biochar (inc. rock dust)).
After the microbes have done their thing, is there not a risk of essentially washing away the PK before the plant really needs it? Or are we not watering to run off with this stuff?
*Going to add NPK values to my notes file to have a think about it... Yes, overthinking it like I think someone has mentioned before, but I enjoy it
Don't water to runoff to avoid leeching nutrients.Question for the super/living soil folks;
Does anyone get through a whole grow (ideally outdoors to be relevant to myself) with only using water?
Or do you find yourself (whether needing to or not), giving additional top dress, teas etc throughout?
And I guess if you have done that but also supplemented PK during flowering, noticed any dramatic improvements?
I have no qualms about supplementing, but from reading it seems the whole super/living soil thing is 'supoosed' to be water only as it contains everything a growing plant requires
The super soil mixes have (ample?) P & K (actually, I'm not sure where high amounts of K come from, guano gots the P, but not much specifically high K in the mixes. The kelp meal seems the best with ranges from 2-4K, so is 'that' the K aspect? (Side note, got the kelp meal tonight, so that sits alongside the manure, guano, blood & bone & seamungus, will be getting the shell grit and Lucerne on the weekend before the last spendings next week of perlite, worm castings, gypsum, loam (want some clay in there to help retain nutrients) and the seasol biochar (inc. rock dust)).
After the microbes have done their thing, is there not a risk of essentially washing away the PK before the plant really needs it? Or are we not watering to run off with this stuff?
*Going to add NPK values to my notes file to have a think about it... Yes, overthinking it like I think someone has mentioned before, but I enjoy it
the answer is Yes you can do water only with the right mix. However pot size is the key. I am thinking min of 50 lt depending if growing autos or photos . Photos will require bigger pot. The mix I use from a nearby landscaping yard is water only but the pot I used was not big enough became very root bound and had to feed daily during the last 4 weeksQuestion for the super/living soil folks;
Does anyone get through a whole grow (ideally outdoors to be relevant to myself) with only using water?
Or do you find yourself (whether needing to or not), giving additional top dress, teas etc throughout?
And I guess if you have done that but also supplemented PK during flowering, noticed any dramatic improvements?
I have no qualms about supplementing, but from reading it seems the whole super/living soil thing is 'supoosed' to be water only as it contains everything a growing plant requires
The super soil mixes have (ample?) P & K (actually, I'm not sure where high amounts of K come from, guano gots the P, but not much specifically high K in the mixes. The kelp meal seems the best with ranges from 2-4K, so is 'that' the K aspect? (Side note, got the kelp meal tonight, so that sits alongside the manure, guano, blood & bone & seamungus, will be getting the shell grit and Lucerne on the weekend before the last spendings next week of perlite, worm castings, gypsum, loam (want some clay in there to help retain nutrients) and the seasol biochar (inc. rock dust)).
After the microbes have done their thing, is there not a risk of essentially washing away the PK before the plant really needs it? Or are we not watering to run off with this stuff?
*Going to add NPK values to my notes file to have a think about it... Yes, overthinking it like I think someone has mentioned before, but I enjoy it
I was originally going to us 30-40L pots, but I have a load of 50L pots that I used to grow out some fruit trees before moving, so might just use them.the answer is Yes you can do water only with the right mix. However pot size is the key. I am thinking min of 50 lt depending if growing autos or photos . Photos will require bigger pot. The mix I use from a nearby landscaping yard is water only but the pot I used was not big enough became very root bound and had to feed daily during the last 4 weeks
I guess it comes back to how soon you flip them. The same plant I grew outdoor went to 2 m . Indoor contained to 1 m¹
I was originally going to us 30-40L pots, but I have a load of 50L pots that I used to grow out some fruit trees before moving, so might just use them.
Will be photos.
Don't want too big of a plant though, so will be on training duty for a while.
Will getting flipped at the equinox lolI guess it comes back to how soon you flip them. The same plant I grew outdoor went to 2 m . Indoor contained to 1 m
50L is bare minimum imo , if your going to use that size pot plan ahead & don't leave them in that pot growing for 6 months , think 3 months max , the main reason smaller pots are problematic is the rate at which the pot can dry out , if organisms are growing , protecting & feeding your plant there environment needs to be kept consistent moisture wise , loose those organisms & you loose the ability for the plant to feed & protect itself , of cause 50L pot indoors is not the same as 50L pot outdoors as far as soil drying rate go's , & if your running 4 50L pots indoor i'd suggest replace those 4 with a small bed indoor & grow 4 plants in it , not saying 50L pots can't be done because i & many others have done it but i did set up a blumat system to keep that moisture consistent , also choice of cultivar is important , a more sativa based plant can stretch double or tripple it's size at flip so it's possible for a 300mm plant to finish over a meter high at harvest¹
I was originally going to us 30-40L pots, but I have a load of 50L pots that I used to grow out some fruit trees before moving, so might just use them.
Will be photos.
Don't want too big of a plant though, so will be on training duty for a while.
Damn, that's like half wine barrel size isn't it?If full season outdoors, 180L for a single "water only" plant is minimum. Even then, the plants are going to run out of steam towards the end.