Easy as organics

[Hudo]

100%. Everytime someone repeats the low yield/long veg myth to me I don't really know what to say. Longer veg than what, 2 to 4 weeks or something? I don't get it. From the time a rooted cutting is planted into the final container to harvest, if done right, the amount of time will be the same as hydro lol

I'm thinking it's because people have mastered there fav technique like myself I've played around with DWC for over 20 years and have it dialed in to the point I could near do a run blind folded and then try somthing else and get know where near the results and think this is shit and go back to what they know now I know I'm not going to get a result anywhere near what I get with DWC but I've had 20 years experience in it but I'm very time poor ATM and want somthing I can leave a couple days and not worry thats why this pheno hunt in running coco but that's still mixing nutes and shite

 

[Porky]

100%. Everytime someone repeats the low yield/long veg myth to me I don't really know what to say. Longer veg than what, 2 to 4 weeks or something? I don't get it. From the time a rooted cutting is planted into the final container to harvest, if done right, the amount of time will be the same as hydro lol

DWC is quicker veg than any other medium!! I've seen the growth DWC can produce when dialled in and it's fucking almost unbelievable that a plant can grow that much!!
Yeah personally I think soil is a tiny bit slower veg than coco or perlite or similar!!
When I say slower I mean maybe 1 week extra veg over a 6 week veg or less maybe 4 to 5 days.
Personally I can't taste the difference between buds grow in different mediums. I think curing and drying has far more to do with the final product.
Having said all this I grew in soil inside for 4 years and loved the ease of it. Current lot not included!!

 

[Hudo]

DWC is quicker veg than any other medium!! I've seen the growth DWC can produce when dialled in and it's fucking almost unbelievable that a plant can grow that much!!
Yeah personally I think soil is a tiny bit slower veg than coco or perlite or similar!!
When I say slower I mean maybe 1 week extra veg over a 6 week veg or less maybe 4 to 5 days.
Personally I can't taste the difference between buds grow in different mediums. I think curing and drying has far more to do with the final product.
Having said all this I grew in soil inside for 4 years and loved the ease of it. Current lot not included!!

Yeah I'm not expecting apples for apples I'm just so busy with work lately I need an easy alternative for a while I love DWC ease of clean up water on the lawn roots in the green bin and net pots in the bin coco I have only so many gardens to put it in

 

[Porky]

Yeah I'm not expecting apples for apples I'm just so busy with work lately I need an easy alternative for a while I love DWC ease of clean up water on the lawn roots in the green bin and net pots in the bin coco I have only so many gardens to put it in

Yeah mate soil should suit that mate.
I could easily go 3 to 4 days without even looking at them let alone doing anything!!

 

[itchybro]

in any system choice it's all about recognising the limiting factors in that chosen system
in soil it's often pot size / soil volume

in 50 liters & below , the roots hit the sides & bottom of the pot in no time , growth is then quickly slowed
75 liters & above ( preferably above ) , biology stays more consistent because water stays more consistent = better plant performance

& that biology gives you a depth of taste & smell that no other system can achieve imho

 

[Aye Shroomer]

I’m happy running with coco/perlite hempys again but I’m intrigued to go back to soil and use good soil! Not Bunnings gnats riddled crap.

That vegepod looks pretty cool.
I’m actually tinkering with a 60L Bunnings tote SIP idea for outside. I’ll take some photos when I get home tonight.
I planned on running it with coco or peat actually but I’m wondering how it would handle soil.

 

[Pixie]

I've only grown inside 2times and was crap at it. Last Time I grew outside I used Coco Pro, perlite and seamungus pellet and fed them with Gogo juice. Plants grew like weeds had no problems even with all the crappy weather and rain. 2 X GDP. Will be doing the same again.

 

[Aye Shroomer]

This is the sip. Still not finished but you get the idea.
Flexible drain piping with slits and nylon sock to stop small crap clogging it.

I’ll be covering the pipe with perlite like a hempy. Then with whatever media I pick. Even thinking of cutting the lid in half and place it around the plants to stop soil pests.

 

[veritas629]

I've seen this design on other grower's forums with the perforated hose in a bin. What is the purpose of the pipe? Could you give quick explanation of the system? Just curious...

 

[Aye Shroomer]

I've seen this design on other grower's forums with the perforated hose in a bin. What is the purpose of the pipe? Could you give quick explanation of the system? Just curious...

To fill out the reservoir so there’s more water. Perlite will help fill it the gaps.
I’m just wonder how well the media will wick up the water. Might have to incorporate a few rope strands vertically thru the tub.

 

[Aye Shroomer]

So this was based on a balcony grow in NY. They grew capsicum and tomatoes but weed should work in it too.

 

[itchybro]

hey Ayeydized
how tall is that tub ? , i ask because water will generally only wick up around 30cm in soil
not sure about coco but i suspect it'd be the same

how do you plan on filling the reservoir ? , watering through the top of the soil is not the best of choices imo
i've used eathboxes a bit & what i've seen is , when soil wicks from the bottom it can stay quite wet , by watering
from the top as well you'll run the risk of over watering easily , if you can put in a fill tube in the corner like an eathbox
& only water via the reservoir you'd have less chance of over watering i reckon

& if your plan is to let it dry right out before watering again through the top , that's not great for your soil biology / worms / composters
plus it'll flush allot of the nutrients out into the reservoir , might be ok in coco i guess but any plant outdoors will attract organisms to it's root zone

the eathbox uses a plastic cover or shower cap as some like to call it , just like your plastic lid cutting idea , neither will stop bugs getting in
on an earthbox it's used to conserve water , it will block evaporation , condensation will biuld up on the underside of the cover & drip back down
to the soil surface , outdoors the cover will help block rain from watering through the top & causing the plant to become over watered

my first run with earthboxes the media was 66% peat moss 33% perlite vermiculite mix , the res was filled with water & EM-1 & i used a bokashi
fertilizer ( which is also made with EM-1 ) & worm castings , like this

when you used the cover the top soil stays moist & roots will utilize all the soil available top to bottom
here's a couple of eathbox pic's i still have on my phone & another pic which is the oz version of an earthbox called Greensmart pots , the mycelium you see came mostly from the bokashi fertilizer i used
& the consistent moisture under the plastic cover

 

[Aye Shroomer]

hey Ayeydized
how tall is that tub ? , i ask because water will generally only wick up around 30cm in soil
not sure about coco but i suspect it'd be the same

how do you plan on filling the reservoir ? , watering through the top of the soil is not the best of choices imo
i've used eathboxes a bit & what i've seen is , when soil wicks from the bottom it can stay quite wet , by watering
from the top as well you'll run the risk of over watering easily , if you can put in a fill tube in the corner like an eathbox
& only water via the reservoir you'd have less chance of over watering i reckon

& if your plan is to let it dry right out before watering again through the top , that's not great for your soil biology / worms / composters
plus it'll flush allot of the nutrients out into the reservoir , might be ok in coco i guess but any plant outdoors will attract organisms to it's root zone

the eathbox uses a plastic cover or shower cap as some like to call it , just like your plastic lid cutting idea , neither will stop bugs getting in
on an earthbox it's used to conserve water , it will block evaporation , condensation will biuld up on the underside of the cover & drip back down
to the soil surface , outdoors the cover will help block rain from watering through the top & causing the plant to become over watered

my first run with earthboxes the media was 66% peat moss 33% perlite vermiculite mix , the res was filled with water & EM-1 & i used a bokashi
fertilizer ( which is also made with EM-1 ) & worm castings , like this

when you used the cover the top soil stays moist & roots will utilize all the soil available top to bottom
here's a couple of eathbox pic's i still have on my phone & another pic which is the oz version of an earthbox called Greensmart pots , the mycelium you see came mostly from the bokashi fertilizer i used
& the consistent moisture under the plastic cover


View attachment 25352
View attachment 25354

Nice. I’ll check it out.

The tubs about 500mm high. Pipe is like 70mm diameter.

Feeding will be via a pipe just like the hempys in the corner opposite the overflow hole on side.

I’ve also thought instead of a lid that I’ll use diacondria cover crop.

Everyone’s input is welcome as I’m trying to work out what suits my set up.

 

[Aye Shroomer]

So the earthbox is basically the same concept I’m looking for.
And the Aussie greensmart pot is great. $70 a tub but if I can mimic it this time with what I have great. If it fails at least I know where to buy a better system.

 

[itchybro]

one of the things that both the greensmart pot & earthbox have in common is an air gap between
the reservoir & soil , the soil is the wicking of cause but only at points in the container , in the earthbox the soil
is pushed down in 2 corners as wicking points & in the greensmart pot , half a dozen holes along the center
these are the only contact with the water , overflow cutouts in both stop the majority of soil from touching the
water & keeping the constant air gap

you can also buy these things called Water Ups for DIY'ing wicking beds https://www.waterups.com.au/garden-bed-wicking-system/
i've never used them myself though

 

[Madmick]

Maybe blumats and a res outside tent

I'm surprised how well they are performing in coco

 

[Aye Shroomer]

one of the things that both the greensmart pot & earthbox have in common is an air gap between
the reservoir & soil , the soil is the wicking of cause but only at points in the container , in the earthbox the soil
is pushed down in 2 corners as wicking points & in the greensmart pot , half a dozen holes along the center
these are the only contact with the water , overflow cutouts in both stop the majority of soil from touching the
water & keeping the constant air gap

you can also buy these things called Water Ups for DIY'ing wicking beds https://www.waterups.com.au/garden-bed-wicking-system/
i've never used them myself though

Yeah my concept is to fill the res until almost all the piping is covered but then it over flows out leaving a small air pocket along the top of the piping and the soil.
The perlite around the pipe will allow roots to reach the water while the air pocket is inside along the length of piping

I have a few window box planters with self wicking beds exactly like you said. They have troughs for the soil to reach water while most of the soil stays above the air pocket.

The lions tail I have are in one. And last year’s strawberries grew well in them too.

 

[veritas629]

one of the things that both the greensmart pot & earthbox have in common is an air gap between
the reservoir & soil , the soil is the wicking of cause but only at points in the container , in the earthbox the soil
is pushed down in 2 corners as wicking points & in the greensmart pot , half a dozen holes along the center
these are the only contact with the water , overflow cutouts in both stop the majority of soil from touching the
water & keeping the constant air gap

Just for reference, the Vegepod works in the same way with an air gap, a few wicks, and some overflow holes. To the best of my understanding, the Vegepod is simply a bigger earthbox. Not better, just bigger. I liked it because I wanted one big soil bed for four plants, rather than several smaller earthboxes. I figured the microbiology and no-till ideas would work better in a larger volume of soil.

 

[itchybro]

all good mate
i'm just not as familiar with the vegepod

you figured right imo , larger soil volumes are definitely a plus for soil biology
my only concern with any SIP run outdoors is rain or water getting through to an already saturated soil
causing over watering & the possible flow on effect of pest &/or pathogen attack because of an unhealthy plant

in an earthbox the soil can stay pretty wet especially early on , if you tried to keep any soil that wet via top watering
you would 100% over water the plant but with sub irrigation & wicking over watering doesn't seem to be an issue

a shower cap keeps any mycelium growth through the soil surface from air pruning , if you've ever covered any soil with
a tarp you usually see mycelium growth when you uncover it but you don't see that growth if it's not covered , mainly
because the soil surface drys out uncovered , doesn't mean the mycelium isn't present in that soil just not present or
active in dry soil

what can be an issue with earthboxes is the stagnant water if you keep the reservoir constantly full
& not letting it empty between refills