What's on offer in the LED Strip Lighting range this year? (2021)

Indy

Misfit
User ID
57
.. And new tech to watch out for?

LED didn't really capture my attention until Tunks rocked up with his strips. A couple of years have rolled on since then, and now it's a option i'm interested in exploring in case i might have some heat issues with my new setup i'll complete later this year.

The reasoning behind the strips is i'll be operating out of a couple of purpose built cabinets and i tend to think i'd get the preferred spread with them. Also wondering if there's a series/make of strips that have different spectrums that can be utilised in a interchangable setup if required. For instance, maybe 3 strips in a budding cabinet utilising 2 different spectrums. And a vegging cab with 2 strips of the same spectrums that can be changed out to bud cab if needed. Why i'd prefer individual strips over a complete kit is so i can make my own frame and space the strips to where i'd like.

Anyway, what would you recommend to check out this year?
 

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Gazza

Forum Pisshead
User ID
21

Danno

Germinating
User ID
881
Getting nice results with a Luciusflex 600.......https://www.lucius.com.au/product/lucius-flex/
 

thefullspectrum

Curing
Community Member
User ID
869
.. And new tech to watch out for?

LED didn't really capture my attention until Tunks rocked up with his strips. A couple of years have rolled on since then, and now it's a option i'm interested in exploring in case i might have some heat issues with my new setup i'll complete later this year.

The reasoning behind the strips is i'll be operating out of a couple of purpose built cabinets and i tend to think i'd get the preferred spread with them. Also wondering if there's a series/make of strips that have different spectrums that can be utilised in a interchangable setup if required. For instance, maybe 3 strips in a budding cabinet utilising 2 different spectrums. And a vegging cab with 2 strips of the same spectrums that can be changed out to bud cab if needed. Why i'd prefer individual strips over a complete kit is so i can make my own frame and space the strips to where i'd like.

Anyway, what would you recommend to check out this year?

That was my initial plan. But... I somehow ended up with this monstrosity. My next one'll be well evolved using better parts.

The 2 outer panels are 85w each smsng LM281+ 3000K, 5000K, 660Nm, ($50)

I have 2 more 50w versions, will use for end lighting (vertical) during flower to compensate these 85 w boards ($34)

The single centre panel is a 100w smsng LM301H 3500k and 660Nm, ($130)

8 x 50w Bridgelux cobs switched, dimmed individually. 2 x 450Nm, 2 x 3000K, 2 x 6000K, 2 x full spec 380-780Nm, Running on off every 15 mins, their 4 x 120mm fans help cool all the other panels. ($140)

30w LG 395NmUV and Cree 730NmIR 900mm booster board. mounted on a diy heatsink on the outside of the alum frame ($65) It'll only be on for a bit during lights on and off. Fuck me the UV diodes get hot.

All up have 400w of quantum smd and 400w of cobs. 800w drawn from the wall. All the 660Nm is switchable but Im leaving on regardless.




IMG_4767.JPG

The Plants eye view of the light.
 

Porky

The Dwarf Hermie King
User ID
17
That was my initial plan. But... I somehow ended up with this monstrosity. My next one'll be well evolved using better parts.

The 2 outer panels are 85w each smsng LM281+ 3000K, 5000K, 660Nm, ($50)

I have 2 more 50w versions, will use for end lighting (vertical) during flower to compensate these 85 w boards ($34)

The single centre panel is a 100w smsng LM301H 3500k and 660Nm, ($130)

8 x 50w Bridgelux cobs switched, dimmed individually. 2 x 450Nm, 2 x 3000K, 2 x 6000K, 2 x full spec 380-780Nm, Running on off every 15 mins, their 4 x 120mm fans help cool all the other panels. ($140)

30w LG 395NmUV and Cree 730NmIR 900mm booster board. mounted on a diy heatsink on the outside of the alum frame ($65) It'll only be on for a bit during lights on and off. Fuck me the UV diodes get hot.

All up have 400w of quantum smd and 400w of cobs. 800w drawn from the wall. All the 660Nm is switchable but Im leaving on regardless.




View attachment 17732

The Plants eye view of the light.
Did you build this ya self mate??
 

ED-209

Vegetating
User ID
775
Yep.

800 w for a 2 x 4, 1/2 of that are shit inneffecient driverless cobs, and cheap shit that may struggle to develop the massive baseball bat size buds that I want!
800w in a 2x4 seems like a shitload of light. Is that just because the components wont be high efficiency? I dig the DIY though, kinda keen to try build something myself - but don't know if I trust my electronics skills
 

thefullspectrum

Curing
Community Member
User ID
869
800w in a 2x4 seems like a shitload of light. Is that just because the components wont be high efficiency? I dig the DIY though, kinda keen to try build something myself - but don't know if I trust my electronics skills
That is exactly right mate. these 50w driverless cobs pull up to 55w each but most output is heat I reckon. The actual polycarbonate lens's covering them are worth more the the cobs lol Not sure how I'll go on a real hot day yet. Jumped in without doing any homework.

Reckon Ill replace them panels with some crees and a driver next run

Ha ha Im certainly no rocket surgeon but these driverless cobs are pretty straight forward.
 

Porky

The Dwarf Hermie King
User ID
17
That is exactly right mate. these 50w driverless cobs pull up to 55w each but most output is heat I reckon. The actual polycarbonate lens's covering them are worth more the the cobs lol Not sure how I'll go on a real hot day yet. Jumped in without doing any homework.

Reckon Ill replace them panels with some crees and a driver next run

Ha ha Im certainly no rocket surgeon but these driverless cobs are pretty straight forward.
Take the covers off the cobs they will work heaps better!!
 

Kloud9

Baked
Community Member
User ID
46
.. And new tech to watch out for?

LED didn't really capture my attention until Tunks rocked up with his strips. A couple of years have rolled on since then, and now it's a option i'm interested in exploring in case i might have some heat issues with my new setup i'll complete later this year.

The reasoning behind the strips is i'll be operating out of a couple of purpose built cabinets and i tend to think i'd get the preferred spread with them. Also wondering if there's a series/make of strips that have different spectrums that can be utilised in a interchangable setup if required. For instance, maybe 3 strips in a budding cabinet utilising 2 different spectrums. And a vegging cab with 2 strips of the same spectrums that can be changed out to bud cab if needed. Why i'd prefer individual strips over a complete kit is so i can make my own frame and space the strips to where i'd like.

Anyway, what would you recommend to check out this year?
What size are each grow areas , apx ?
 

JHerer

Germinating
User ID
196
Anyone looking at the Cutter strips?

https://www.cutter.com.au/product/ssk-1560-2790cr/ - these are dirt cheap, 195 lumens per watt, 48V @ 500mA.

The biggest cost with these seems to be drivers - a HLG 600W would run 24 of them without needing heatsinking, and would fill a 4 X 6 tent.

Although there are ways to drive them without drivers - not like the driverless COB's - they are linear regs - you can use a series capacitor to provide reactance (like resistance but with AC, and without the heat). https://www.homemade-circuits.com/simplest-100-watt-led-bulb-circuit/ for example.

This needs to be done very carefully - no isolation = electrocution. You MUST run an RCD AND insulate every exposed connector - or no touchy touchy when on.

If you want to get fancier, go an unisolated buck converter (Like onsemi 7701) that does some proper current regulation and power factor correction.
 

JHerer

Germinating
User ID
196
I decided the capacitor based solution was stupid. Simple, but stupid.

I came to a realisation after a smoke that CC/CV LED drivers are basically what I have used for EV battery chargers - Many years ago I designed a module that converts a Meanwell S-350-48 into a charger by reducing the voltage (feedback on pin 1 of the TL494). Meanwell discontinued the S-350 series, but not before 50 different Chinese copies were made - heck, they even still sell the copies on eBay - $40 for a 48V, 500W unit.

So, I bought one of them to try it out. The build quality is ~ ordinary to say at the least (The output caps are NOT low ESR, the mains bridge rectifier looks way undersized for the job, the interference filter is a toy, it uses a single PTC for inrush protection with no bypassing and they removed ALL the thermal protection components. Sigh.).

The output caps are easy to change, as is the bridge. Anyway. The way it works is to basically compare the voltage across a shunt against a reference voltage, when it exceeds the reference voltage, it sends a voltage to the comparator on the TL494 which forces it to reduce the voltage (and hence current) till it reaches the point set by the user.

I certainly wouldn't rate it at 500W continuous, but comfortably at 350W or so, 400W pushing it. But it does work - the current is limited (voltage adjustment range on the one I had was 33-56V) from 1-10A with the circuit.

I'll post up some pics and information if anyone is interested. Its probably $15 worth of components. You could get away with running multiple supplies in series, using only a single current limited version, and protection diodes to bypass each supply - so 1KW of LED power supply for around the $150 mark. Beats paying $300 for a 650W.
 

Dotts

HPS turncoat
Community Member
User ID
106
...lost me after the first sentence there JH...

But it sounds fuckin awesome!
 

Porky

The Dwarf Hermie King
User ID
17
I decided the capacitor based solution was stupid. Simple, but stupid.

I came to a realisation after a smoke that CC/CV LED drivers are basically what I have used for EV battery chargers - Many years ago I designed a module that converts a Meanwell S-350-48 into a charger by reducing the voltage (feedback on pin 1 of the TL494). Meanwell discontinued the S-350 series, but not before 50 different Chinese copies were made - heck, they even still sell the copies on eBay - $40 for a 48V, 500W unit.

So, I bought one of them to try it out. The build quality is ~ ordinary to say at the least (The output caps are NOT low ESR, the mains bridge rectifier looks way undersized for the job, the interference filter is a toy, it uses a single PTC for inrush protection with no bypassing and they removed ALL the thermal protection components. Sigh.).

The output caps are easy to change, as is the bridge. Anyway. The way it works is to basically compare the voltage across a shunt against a reference voltage, when it exceeds the reference voltage, it sends a voltage to the comparator on the TL494 which forces it to reduce the voltage (and hence current) till it reaches the point set by the user.

I certainly wouldn't rate it at 500W continuous, but comfortably at 350W or so, 400W pushing it. But it does work - the current is limited (voltage adjustment range on the one I had was 33-56V) from 1-10A with the circuit.

I'll post up some pics and information if anyone is interested. Its probably $15 worth of components. You could get away with running multiple supplies in series, using only a single current limited version, and protection diodes to bypass each supply - so 1KW of LED power supply for around the $150 mark. Beats paying $300 for a 650W.
I'll take it your an electrical engineer or just a very keen electrician.
 
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