Replacement driver Mars Hydro
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OZIOZIAUTO
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Talk to @VinDeezle
He talks alot about lighting and components, I havnt been here long so only have him to throw your way
Good luck
He talks alot about lighting and components, I havnt been here long so only have him to throw your way
Good luck
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How are the dual drivers wired up to the board and do you know the PCB layout (diodes in series/parallel)? Something like an xlg-150-h-ab should work (27-56v, but I'm unsure the boards volatge) 150w, but I'm not sure how your drivers are hooked up to the board, or the PCB layout. It might be easier to run a single 320w driver instead of replacing one depending on how the dimming is currently set up.
Each driver has its own output lead direct into the LED Board. There is a splitter on the input side. The 2 LED Boards are independant of each other. The only common thing between the 2 boards is a dimmer switch which is not connected directly to the driver.
One driver is currently working. If I swap the output of the working driver into the other LED board, it works.
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good times to come lol.
Hudo
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Problem with that is the the drivers would be half the price of a new tsw
the 320 watt wouldn't work on it well it would but it wouldn't have enough current to drive them to the 300 let alone the 320 because you would have to run them in parallel the the current will be split in 2. Lets say each panel is pulling the 42v that's stated on the driver (I doubt it ) the Max you could get out would be 280w.This is why 6.7a ÷ 2 is 3.35 so each board would receive 3.35a × that by 42 is 140× 2 is 280w which I recon would be less that's why those moso drivers have are 5.4a I recon thed be pulling about 28v and times that by the 5.4 will give you around 150 per board to give 300 total you really need the board min max current and volts to prescribe a different driver otherwise its a guessing game. If you do want to fix it ( I'd just get a new one) I'd go to alibaba and get the same cheap driver because the rest of the components on that light don't warrant upgrading. There are diy kits that you can get that will blow the doors off the mars for around the price of those cheaper lights that will put you in quality light fixture performance but you need to be good with a screwdriver
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For sure. There are far more cost effective options out there at the end of the day.Problem with that is the the drivers would be half the price of a new tsw
This is why 6.7a ÷ 2 is 3.35 so each board would receive 3.35a × that by 42 is 280w which I recon would be less that's why those moso drivers have are 5.4a I recon thed be pulling about 28v and times that by the 5.4 will give you around 150 per board to give 300 total you really need the board min max current and volts to prescribe a different driver otherwise its a guessing game. If you do want to fix it ( I'd just get a new one) I'd go to alibaba and get the same cheap driver because the rest of the components on that light don't warrant upgrading. There are diy kits that you can get that will blow the doors off the mars for around the price of those cheaper lights that will put you in quality light fixture performance but you need to be good with a screwdriver
Im using various chinesium (basically all rebranded kingbrite 288 or dual 288 kits with sosen drivers that cost less than some of the meanwell drivers by themselves.
These put out surprisingly good light and ended up costing me $170. 300w, Samsung diodes and a sosen ss-320vp driver. All that app control shit..
If the issue persists and he really wants a repair, a cheaper xlg-150 at around $70 will do the job fine if the boards voltage is over 36v.
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Hudo
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There good but just because they say samsung they don't state what bin diodes they are. There is numerous lm301b and 301H binned diodes that have different efficiency. I've got 2 kingbrite 240w I salvaged off mates that had stopped working and first built one working one from the 2 then put new boards from cutter electronics on the other with cree diodes for 65 bucks each that murder the kingbrite with the lm301b so I upgraded the second one to. Be it the kingbrite had 288 lm301b and these new boards have 404 but pull same power and when my mate tested them with his par meter they put out a fuller spectrum and a considerable more amount of par
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i feel ya. Ive got a few boards here with higher binned 281b pro and 301h and side by side at the same wattage as the cheaper 281b kingbrites there is an appreciable difference. I'm assuming the Kingbrite boards are probably the lowest of the low. But PAR for the price is fine so I'm not phased, especially as I'm running a bigger board dimmed in a small space. This way im getting 150w over 576 diodes vs the 288 or 418 on the other boards. I don't exactly expect much out of them considering the price but they do a great job in 90x50s dimmed down.
The biggest issue I see with the 288 281b kingbrites is that most cheaper rebrands are pairing them with 150w drivers. Overdriven as hell. But for the price I can't complain.
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definitely. Their newer xs1500 pro model looks great for a 60x60 or 70x70, and their KS series has been rated pretty well from what I can see. The KS5000 has clocked something close to a useable ePPF of 1200umol at 488w and 2.43umol/w which is pretty good and up there with some of the heavy hitters.
