I've been reading over the thread and I missed what does the abbreviation DLI stand for. I did end up putting the photone app on the wife's phone and tried it out quickly, looks like I will have to try it again after upgrading it to full spectrum.For an average led with an overall spectrum between 2700-3500k, you can multiply your lux by 0.0155 to get PAR within a few percent...depending on your spectrum it can be anywhere from 0.0148-0.017. CMH is the most efficient at turning luminous flux to active radiation at 0.017, whereas lights with heaps of stark blues a deep reds will need a different coefficient.
At the end of the day, as bullfrog mentioned,It all depends on the plants metabolism and several environmental factors as well. Personally I run everything at 35k lux (550umol/s) over 18 hours for veg and 950umol/s over 12 hours for flower which give a DLI of 30-40 for the whole grow as I have a pretty steady environment.
At the end of the day "percentage X at distance X" don't mean much. Lux meters are cheap and convert to PAR easily, but the plants body language will do most of the heavy lifting.
DLI is "daily lighting integral" which is the total accumulation of photosynthetic radiation over 24 hour period. For example, 550umol/s over 18 hours is comparable to 825umol/s over 12 hours...both offer the same accumulation of light but over a different ohotoperiod. Both are a DLI of 35.I've been reading over the thread and I missed what does the abbreviation DLI stand for. I did end up putting the photone app on the wife's phone and tried it out quickly, looks like I will have to try it again after upgrading it to full spectrum.
I've been reading over the thread and I missed what does the abbreviation DLI stand for. I did end up putting the photone app on the wife's phone and tried it out quickly, looks like I will have to try it again after upgrading it to full spectrum.
yeah photone on iphone with a diffuser is good. On android its completely and utterly rubbishIf your wife has an iPhone, the app is acceptable as a guideline but can be hit or miss. Ive tried a few apps on android and they were incredibly out of whack with the light sensors on my phone. Photone has been the most reliable, but still way off.
For example, photone won't read over 630umol/s on either three of my android phones at all. Right now I'm at 880umol/s or 56k lux via the lux Meter, but photone won't go over 550umol/s. A few apps have calibration, but the issue I have ran into is the light sensors not being able recognise such stark light, not the actual conversion rate between the two numbers.
I actually get a more accurate reading on my phone's if I throw a piece of 60gsm paper over the sensor which blew my mind at first.
That's good to know, thanks mateIf your wife has an iPhone, the app is acceptable as a guideline but can be hit or miss. Ive tried a few apps on android and they were incredibly out of whack with the light sensors on my phone. Photone has been the most reliable, but still way off.
For example, photone won't read over 630umol/s on either three of my android phones at all. Right now I'm at 880umol/s or 56k lux via the lux Meter, but photone won't go over 550umol/s. A few apps have calibration, but the issue I have ran into is the light sensors not being able recognise such stark light, not the actual conversion rate between the two numbers.
I actually get a more accurate reading on my phone's if I throw a piece of 60gsm paper over the sensor which blew my mind at first.
I understand completely what your saying. I really enjoy learning about it though and I will do my best to apply the basics first, while at the same time I like to know what options are available so while I learn I am aware of some of the practices others are using so I can keep them in mind and use what makes sense at the time, to help me get better.If you try to absorb and use 100% of the info you're getting here on your first grow, you'll probably struggle a bit. Everyone on this forum, even the people with years of experience, are constantly learning and tweaking their set ups. You don't go from only eating mum's food to becoming a 3-star chef over night! HLG is solid and reputable light company, I've got a 550-R in my 4x4 tent right now. HLG's recommendations have been good for me and for many grows I just tweaked the dimmer or height until my plants looked green and happy. And remember, nobody growing weed at home had a PAR sensor before about 5yrs ago and most people still don't.
Remind yourself every so often: Even if you make a few mistakes growing your own, it'll still be better than whatever you're getting from a dealer!
Wow.. Too much for my stoned brain..
Ive just been using a Spider farmer SF 3000 (300w)
Never had a taco even with buds only inches away. on 100%
Could be too much blue and not enough red spectrum, might be worth checking what spectrum the light range isNow that i've got a couple of grows done under a 1000w Full Spectrum LED. I found that having the light operate around 60-70% capacity, and at a height of 18" (45cm) above the canopy. I'm getting DLI readings of around 30 on the edges and 45 in the middle.
I'm getting a spot of foxtailing with it towards the end of grows. But i'm not sure if that's Light or Strain related yet.
EDIT: Grow setup. RDWC in a 1.5m x 1.5m tent, 2 x 45L tubs, with scrog screen.
Specification: SE1000W LED Grow Light
LED: 3710pcs
PPE: 2.9umol/J
BTU: 3411Btu/h
Spectrum: 660nm,3200-4200K,4800-5000K
PPF Value: 2955umol@220V(1030W); 2943umol@277V(1000W)
Coverage: Core Coverage: 4FT*4FT (120x120cm) Max Coverage: 5FT*5FT (150x150cm)
Lumen:186738Lm±5%@AC220V;187150Lm±5%@AC277V
Power Draw:1000W±5%@AC200-277V
Light Size: 1151*1151*77MM
Gross Weight: 15KG
Noise Level: 0dB
Input Voltage: AC200-277V
Amp: 4.678A@AC220V; 3.608A@AC220V
Frequency: 50-60HZ
Yeah, pretty shithouse light I guess..Spiderfarmer , sorry mate , I think we've seen how good they are unfortunately