Diy Gaia green
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Hudo
Baked
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this is it copied and paste from im a cunt mag lol any input from tge soil gurus would be good,
I noticed a lot of gardeners overseas are using gaia green or down to earth 444 as a dry fertiliser.
So trying to use cheap readily available organic fertilisers to recreate this 4% npk mix..
Ingredients
15kg seamangus $24 NPK 4-1-1.5
15kg blood and bone $35 NPK 8-1-1.5
2.5kg phosphorus (from bat guano) $10 NPK 0-12-0
2.5kg potassium potash $22 NPK 0-0-41
or
25kg Eco Prime PhoSpot $45 NPK 0-9.8-6.1
Recipe
Big Green Shed 1kg 444 fertiliser (NPK listed for amounts is per 1000g)
250g seamangus - 40c - NPK 1-0.25-0.4
380g blood and bone - 90c - NPK 3-0.4-0.6
280g phosphorus - $1.10 - NPK 0-3.35-0
70g potassium - 60c - NPK 0-0-3
Add 20g of compost to make it 1000g NPK 444 total cost $3
A cheaper alternative to the phosphorus and potassium found at bunnings could be eco-prime phospot NPK 0-9.8-6.1 25kg $45, still using some potash from bunnings this would bring total to about $2.10 per kg of 444.
Suggested amounts to use 444 when mixing into a new container of soil
down to earth 444 - 300g per 50l
gaia green 444 - 560ml per 50l
Next amendment would be more calcium.. Following some recommendations online I found suggestions for 50% dolamite 50% gypsum 300ml per 50 litres of soil.
Next would be a flowering amendment with an NPK around 2-8-4
What are you favourite organic fertilisers and soil amendments available in Australia?
Any of these ingredients here you would avoid?
Roo_
New member
Goal is to make a cheap organic fertiliser / soil enhancer to amend native soils before planting.I noticed a lot of gardeners overseas are using gaia green or down to earth 444 as a dry fertiliser.
So trying to use cheap readily available organic fertilisers to recreate this 4% npk mix..
Ingredients
15kg seamangus $24 NPK 4-1-1.5
15kg blood and bone $35 NPK 8-1-1.5
2.5kg phosphorus (from bat guano) $10 NPK 0-12-0
2.5kg potassium potash $22 NPK 0-0-41
or
25kg Eco Prime PhoSpot $45 NPK 0-9.8-6.1
Recipe
Big Green Shed 1kg 444 fertiliser (NPK listed for amounts is per 1000g)
250g seamangus - 40c - NPK 1-0.25-0.4
380g blood and bone - 90c - NPK 3-0.4-0.6
280g phosphorus - $1.10 - NPK 0-3.35-0
70g potassium - 60c - NPK 0-0-3
Add 20g of compost to make it 1000g NPK 444 total cost $3
A cheaper alternative to the phosphorus and potassium found at bunnings could be eco-prime phospot NPK 0-9.8-6.1 25kg $45, still using some potash from bunnings this would bring total to about $2.10 per kg of 444.
Suggested amounts to use 444 when mixing into a new container of soil
down to earth 444 - 300g per 50l
gaia green 444 - 560ml per 50l
Next amendment would be more calcium.. Following some recommendations online I found suggestions for 50% dolamite 50% gypsum 300ml per 50 litres of soil.
Next would be a flowering amendment with an NPK around 2-8-4
What are you favourite organic fertilisers and soil amendments available in Australia?
Any of these ingredients here you would avoid?
My only comments would be if you are rural or in a full bush setting I would be careful of blood and bone. Every critter within 10km will be digging your plot up looking for goodies. Seen this the hard way. Suburbia shouldn’t matter much.
Dolomite and lime both take a long time to break down and become available. All good if you reammend your soil or plan on using a patch for a long period of time. Gypsum is pretty well available straight up and the sulphur in gypsum never goes astray.
Dolomite and lime both take a long time to break down and become available. All good if you reammend your soil or plan on using a patch for a long period of time. Gypsum is pretty well available straight up and the sulphur in gypsum never goes astray.
- User ID
- 3548
- User ID
- 3548
https://petandgarden.com.au/product...aSyOpktisXSSscETgsHqYfDCjdkjqWbpYq2-X04zN6zW0
This stuff is good but its organic based, not organic.
7:4:9 npk
Available from Bunnings too
- User ID
- 31
have you seen a whole grow from this guy using this mix of ingredients
the best thing you can do for your growing plants is to maximize soil biology indoor or out , it's a little easier outdoor
so feed the soil not the plant , gardening by numbers is not the best choice imho
because the guy said "native soil " & you said " outdoor " i'm assuming you are both talking growing in the ground
first thing & most important is amending with quality compost &/or castings , both will help add to biology & soil health
the other helpful move outdoor is cover cropping using a green manure mix as living mulch which will also add to biology & soil health , you would also use the cover crop as nutrient cycling by chopping & dropping the green manure as mulch as it gets bigger & before the cash crop got big enough to shade the crop out , not sure the auto would get big enough to do that though , not that it would make a difference if it didn't
regular top dressing under the mulch layer of casting & amendments is a good idea , the casting will be plant available nutrients & biology & the amendments will feed the soil life before being plant available , not to mention the plant protection the soil life provide
as to amendments i could give you a list if you like but as you've mentioned Dr greenthumb , easy as organics , organic soil solutions all have a bag of dry amendments you could use which all have the ingredients i would list & then some , like myko etc
the best thing you can do for your growing plants is to maximize soil biology indoor or out , it's a little easier outdoor
so feed the soil not the plant , gardening by numbers is not the best choice imho
because the guy said "native soil " & you said " outdoor " i'm assuming you are both talking growing in the ground
first thing & most important is amending with quality compost &/or castings , both will help add to biology & soil health
the other helpful move outdoor is cover cropping using a green manure mix as living mulch which will also add to biology & soil health , you would also use the cover crop as nutrient cycling by chopping & dropping the green manure as mulch as it gets bigger & before the cash crop got big enough to shade the crop out , not sure the auto would get big enough to do that though , not that it would make a difference if it didn't
regular top dressing under the mulch layer of casting & amendments is a good idea , the casting will be plant available nutrients & biology & the amendments will feed the soil life before being plant available , not to mention the plant protection the soil life provide
as to amendments i could give you a list if you like but as you've mentioned Dr greenthumb , easy as organics , organic soil solutions all have a bag of dry amendments you could use which all have the ingredients i would list & then some , like myko etc
Itchy said it perfectly. Additionally almost every Australian native soil is phosphorus deficient. This is one area I definitely recommend the organic solution. Fish bones are particularly high in it so sea bird and bat guano and other sea based nutrient lines are best. Phosphate salts from phosphorus rock will have traces of cadmium and other heavy metals. Not a huge issue on a single grow or otherwise, but not something I would do in an ongoing plot. This is going to be a huge issue in the years to come as a lot of the organic sources are already massively over exploited. Makes the concept of growing crops to produce biofuels one of the most brainless concepts ever to be conceived.
Hudo
Baked
- User ID
- 1876
I grow the autos in pots so i can move them if visitors are comming over, @itchybro ive grown a run indoors with the help from you and easy as in te past(the living soil experiment) and it went well im just time poor this year, mr cannucks just adds the Gaia green at the start then just a top dress week 3, what i can gather is Dr greenthumbs is a similar product,
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I've had pretty good results using the 4-4-4 nurture all from dr Greenthumbs. It is all whole amendments so you will need to have a nice microbially active environment to break it all down over time though. Not a fast acting blend by any means unless you brew it.
Have used it as the base for a couple of peat, compost, biochar and pumice mixes in the past.
Goes well bubbled into a tea.
Have used it as the base for a couple of peat, compost, biochar and pumice mixes in the past.
Goes well bubbled into a tea.
