Help with EC if poss.

[OZIOZIAUTO]

I know i can Google and search shit but I'd rather seek all my answers here

Ok , have got 1auto at 6 days today.
So I'm guessing I need to start a feed,so I have RO water
@ 11 ppms Dual fuel 5 drops of each and five drops pro cal and a few drops of seafood just to change colour of water.
Now @ 62 ppms and uq 124 =2 EC , am I correct so far....
pH 6.0

Q,,,,how do I get EC to lower if it's at 2,?????

Thanks y'all , have a great day team....

 

[Merl1n]

"So I'm guessing I need to start a feed."
Not necessarily, well, not yet anyway. Notice you have 2 sets of leaves, 2 serrated and 2 smooth. The 2 smooth are called cotyledon or embryotic leaves. The plant uses these leaves as a food resource in it's initial stage or embryotic stage, if you start giving her a full strength feed now you are more likely going to burn her.

Personally, I'd be dropping all of your additives at this point. She's a baby and needs to be nurtured, not beaten into submission. I use the KISS theory (Keep It Simple Stupid). You add a bit of this and a bit of that and before you know it your EC is sky high, which by the looks of it, is where you are at. If you are going to feed her, start at 1/2 strength straight nute mix so as not to shock the bejeezus out of her. Let her get established (3rd or 4th set of leaves), then start increasing slowly. To decrease your salts simply add more water to your mix.

Here's what I do, I make up full strength batch of nute. 1/2 fill a Coke bottle with the nute mix then top it up with water. This is what I use to feed her until she gets up to the 3rd or 4th set of leaves, then I transfer her into my pots (50ltr). I let her get established in my pots, then increase the nute strength S.L.O.W.L.Y.. During grow (18/6) you'll find she uses very little nutes, very little fluid uptake, but come flower (12/12) that increases massively compared to grow.

She's a baby, be gentle. Adding more nutes does NOT increase growth rate, in fact, I've found I get a better growth rate for my setup using much less nute than is recommended by my nute manufacturer.

 

[OZIOZIAUTO]

"So I'm guessing I need to start a feed."
Not necessarily, well, not yet anyway. Notice you have 2 sets of leaves, 2 serrated and 2 smooth. The 2 smooth are called cotyledon or embryotic leaves. The plant uses these leaves as a food resource in it's initial stage or embryotic stage, if you start giving her a full strength feed now you are more likely going to burn her.

Personally, I'd be dropping all of you additives at this point. She's a baby and needs to be nurtured, not beaten into submission. I use the KISS theory (Keep It Simple Stupid). You add a bit of this and a bit of that and before you know it your EC is sky high, which by the looks of it, is where you are at. If you are going to feed her, start at 1/2 strength nute mix so as not to shock the bejeezus out of

Feeewww thank fuck you tort me a very powerful lesson.

Gotcha ,
So any additives other than dual fuel 1&2 stop now...

So I actually thort that ppms were a good guide to light feed... Of 50 ppms but because I have added the extras puts EC up.
So add water to bring it down ???
What about calmag , isn't that a "MUST" IN the world of MJ..

Thanks for awesome info

Cheers

 

[OZIOZIAUTO]

1full set of leaves then start the feed process??

 

[OZIOZIAUTO]

I'm going regs fuck these fuckn autos I got 3 out of ten and how's this I sent 2 seeds to a mate and 1 came up and then grew some crown jewels all from WSE , no more of my fuckn coin

 

[OZIOZIAUTO]

We

"So I'm guessing I need to start a feed."
Not necessarily, well, not yet anyway. Notice you have 2 sets of leaves, 2 serrated and 2 smooth. The 2 smooth are called cotyledon or embryotic leaves. The plant uses these leaves as a food resource in it's initial stage or embryotic stage, if you start giving her a full strength feed now you are more likely going to burn her.

Personally, I'd be dropping all of you additives at this point. She's a baby and needs to be nurtured, not beaten into submission. I use the KISS theory (Keep It Simple Stupid). You add a bit of this and a bit of that and before you know it your EC is sky high, which by the looks of it, is where you are at. If you are going to feed her, start at 1/2 strength nute mix so as not to shock the bejeezus out of

Do I just add water to lower e c and forget the ppms ??

 

[VinDeezle]

Do you know what scale your pen reads? EC is always ec, but there is three different conversions to TDS. Hanna, eutech and truncheon scale to convert.

Hanna is 500ppm=1.0ec. eutech is 640ppm=1.0ec. Truncheon is 700ppm=1.0ec.

500ppm is the most common. Something seems off with your math as 500ppm = an EC of 1.0. 1000 will be 2.0. 1500ppm will be an EC of 3.0.

62ppm will be an EC 0.124

 

[Stackr]

Now @ 62 ppms and uq 124 =2 EC

Hi Ozi
I'm not quite sure about your calculations.
On the pics EC, is being displayed, however the units are in "µs/cm".
Edit: 2nd pic EC, 1st pic ppm.
Many pens and truncheons use "ms/cm", so 124µs/cm = 0.124 ms/cm (milli versus micro)
You can scroll though the modes to find "ppm", if you prefer that unit.
Have a play with Green Planets "Nutrient Calculator", it list both ppm and EC.
Disregard all the addons, and that will reduce the EC result, which is better to stay low to begin with anyway.
Edit: Maybe I type too slow

 

[VinDeezle]

I take it you are in coco. I usually stick to 0.5 EC of base feed (no additives) for the first two-three weeks then move up to an EC of 1.0 once they take off around week three-four.

base feed always stays around an EC of 1-1.25 all run but ill add is some massive to take it up to a total of 1.5 from week three on. I've never used any cal mag, resin boosters or pk tbh.

Some people like to push insane numbers, but I've found that i can't keep the plants metabolism on point enough to run an EC of 2-3. I find feeding more often does the job just as well..

 

[Merl1n]

EC and PPM is measuring the same thing, the amount of salts.
EC = Electrical Conductivity. In REALLY basic terms, pure water does not conduct electricity. It's the salt content that allows the electric current to pass through it. The more current, the higher the salt content.
PPM = Parts Per Million. Again, in basic terms EC x 700=PPM (KISS - it's simpler than using ms/cm IMHO anyway.)

 

[OZIOZIAUTO]

Do you know what scale your pen reads? EC is always ec, but there is three different conversions to TDS. Hanna, eutech and truncheon scale to convert.

Hanna is 500ppm=1.0ec. eutech is 640ppm=1.0ec. Truncheon is 700ppm=1.0ec.

500ppm is the most common. Something seems off with your math as 500ppm = an EC of 1.0. 1000 will be 2.0. 1500ppm will be an EC of 3.0.

62ppm will be an EC 0.124

How's things @VinDeezle

First thing , I DO NOT understand fully the EC,tds,blah blah,however Im not sure what my pen is !!

So let's work that out first bro course I'm fucking it all up because I k now fuck all about this shit and I need to learn or I will kill all girls

Dunno if you can read this

 

[OZIOZIAUTO]

Hi Ozi
I'm not quite sure about your calculations.
On the pics EC, is being displayed, however the units are in "µs/cm".
Edit: 2nd pic EC, 1st pic ppm.
Many pens and truncheons use "ms/cm", so 124µs/cm = 0.124 ms/cm (milli versus micro)
You can scroll though the modes to find "ppm", if you prefer that unit.
Have a play with Green Planets "Nutrient Calculator", it list both ppm and EC.
Disregard all the addons, and that will reduce the EC result, which is better to stay low to begin with anyway.
Edit: Maybe I type too slow

I think I get that still reading over and over

 

[OZIOZIAUTO]

I take it you are in coco. I usually stick to 0.5 EC of base feed (no additives) for the first two-three weeks then move up to an EC of 1.0 once they take off around week three-four.

base feed always stays around an EC of 1-1.25 all run but ill add is some massive to take it up to a total of 1.5 from week three on. I've never used any cal mag, resin boosters or pk tbh.

Some people like to push insane numbers, but I've found that i can't keep the plants metabolism on point enough to run an EC of 2-3. I find feeding more often does the job just as well..

Ok so my pen has
Salts
pH
Ppms
pH

I think I may understand a little now , cheers bruss

 

[OZIOZIAUTO]

I

"So I'm guessing I need to start a feed."
Not necessarily, well, not yet anyway. Notice you have 2 sets of leaves, 2 serrated and 2 smooth. The 2 smooth are called cotyledon or embryotic leaves. The plant uses these leaves as a food resource in it's initial stage or embryotic stage, if you start giving her a full strength feed now you are more likely going to burn her.

Personally, I'd be dropping all of your additives at this point. She's a baby and needs to be nurtured, not beaten into submission. I use the KISS theory (Keep It Simple Stupid). You add a bit of this and a bit of that and before you know it your EC is sky high, which by the looks of it, is where you are at. If you are going to feed her, start at 1/2 strength straight nute mix so as not to shock the bejeezus out of her. Let her get established (3rd or 4th set of leaves), then start increasing slowly. To decrease your salts simply add more water to your mix.

Here's what I do, I make up full strength batch of nute. 1/2 fill a Coke bottle with the nute mix then top it up with water. This is what I use to feed her until she gets up to the 3rd or 4th set of leaves, then I transfer her into my pots (50ltr). I let her get established in my pots, then increase the nute strength S.L.O.W.L.Y.. During grow (18/6) you'll find she uses very little nutes, very little fluid uptake, but come flower (12/12) that increases massively compared to grow.

She's a baby, be gentle. Adding more nutes does NOT increase growth rate, in fact, I've found I get a better growth rate for my setup using much less nute than is recommended by my nute manufacturer.

Totally agree

 

[Sedge]

this might help with knowing the equal values .

blulab truncheon..probably the best you can get at reasonable price.



I feed 0.4 to 0.6 EC a few days after they pop up .
a week later I’ll be at 0.8 ,EC
usually by the time I flip them they are at 1.0 or 1.2 EC.

seeing it’s an auto your growing id start feeding as early as possible to get a good structure happening quickly.

tip burn will tell you if you have gone to high..
but you should be right with those readings at those ages.

 

[OZIOZIAUTO]

this might help with knowing the equal values .

blulab truncheon..probably the best you can get at reasonable price.

View attachment 33276View attachment 33277View attachment 33279

I feed 0.4 to 0.6 EC a few days after they pop up .
a week later I’ll be at 0.8 ,EC
usually by the time I flip them they are at 1.0 or 1.2 EC.

seeing it’s an auto your growing id start feeding as early as possible to get a good structure happening quickly.

tip burn will tell you if you have gone to high..
but you should be right with those readings at those ages.

I sorta thort that in my first post I was asking if 50-60 ppms was ok but EC still at 2 but I will fix that nowthanks man

 

[OZIOZIAUTO]

this might help with knowing the equal values .

blulab truncheon..probably the best you can get at reasonable price.

View attachment 33276View attachment 33277View attachment 33279

I feed 0.4 to 0.6 EC a few days after they pop up .
a week later I’ll be at 0.8 ,EC
usually by the time I flip them they are at 1.0 or 1.2 EC.

seeing it’s an auto your growing id start feeding as early as possible to get a good structure happening quickly.

tip burn will tell you if you have gone to high..
but you should be right with those readings at those ages.

@Sedge
That's all I need I'm on to it now
How much are those thingyys
Cheers

 

[OZIOZIAUTO]

Cheers to all your help guys it has helped in a big way......
I do not want to fuck my last auto

 

[Sedge]

Blulab truncheon are about $150 from last time I saw advertised..
very much worth its money.
mines still going strong after about 6 or 7 years.

 

[GlennT_59]

I'm going regs fuck these fuckn autos .............

Ya gonna have to change ya name then