DIY Automation

Secretchief

Vegetating
User ID
1502
There has been some talk about DIY automation so I figured I would start a thread to show what I am doing, and hopefully share a few ideas.
This is all very much still a prototype and many things will change (mainly sensors) so consider it more of a proof of concept than a working system.

I have experimented with 2 different programs: Mycodo and Home Assistant, both programs have their pros and cons but HA is better documented and more user friendly, in particular for remote access and MQTT/Wifi Nodes (we will get to those) Mycodo can do PID PWM and is much better at controlling the host pi GPIOs (HA has removed this for some reason).
The core of my system is currently a raspberry pi 4 running Home Assistant, ethernet to modem and hidden out of site:
P_20220522_193624.jpg
Next we have an ESP32 module, this communicates with Pi over Wifi:

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The Esp32 is fucking awesome, cost about $13. this one is running 2 DHT11 temp sensors (one for tent, one for external temp. they are garbage, i will replace with BME280 or senseair k30 units), a 1 wire ds18b temp sensor (just so i have one good sensor until i replace DHTs), 2 Mosfets for PWM fan control and a optocoupler (could just be another FET) to dim my LED driver. I also have a co2/TVOC sensor but it doesn't give any useful data. the other PCB is just breaking out different pins.

On the left is a smart power strip, these can be flashed with Tasmota, which is capable of running its own timers and will execute regardless of network connection, I use this as a backup timer. i will add at a second when i can.

P_20220522_180932.jpg
Small aquarium pump circulates coolant through rad and lights, as it is mixed metal I am running anti corrosive car coolant. I am out of smart power points but eventually this will turn off if the temp is low to heat the tent. fans are barely spinning and lights run about 2c above ambient according to the IR thermometer, so definitely works even with my dodgy heat sink job:
P_20220522_181016.jpg
Water cooling is a little over the top but I have 260w of leds and am not running an AC for a 2x2, I can easily bring the tent to the temp of lung room so I am toying with the idea of Co2 just for temperature resistance.

Humidifier is just using smart strip to switch on and off according to VPD and a humidity limit.
P_20220522_181149.jpg
picked this one up for $10, only 1.5L so will end up in the Veg chamber eventually.

Now the fun part:

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The main dash is just giving read outs, I have days/weeks since planted and watering, the buttons on the right are more indicators but will switch if you press and hold, water icons just reset the watering counter.
pic 2 is graphs showing last 24hrs and sliders adjust fan speeds at low, med, high as well as target temp, max humidity. VPD High and Low are automations that switch humidifier and fans on and off, these can be set on a schedule (I turn off the VPD high 15 min before lights off and on 15 min before lights on as the humidity rises as temp drops and I like it to get a chance to dry out.
Temp automations are basically: if temp less than 1 over target or within 2 of room temp then run low speed. if temp >1 but <4 over target, set to med, if >4 set to high. I used to do an additional check to see if VPD is high or low and add an off period (say 2 min on, 1 min off) but unless you have multiple sensors being averaged I found this more stable.
Pic 3 is just inputs for the plants, the buttons at the bottom execute scripts that turn on the relevant timers and adjust temp targets so I can switch from veg to flower. toggles are just giving me feedback as I am still working on this.
last page is just stuff I am playing with or have not found a home for.

If you look under the light you will see a small camera, this is an ESP32-Cam, pretty poor image quality but for $20 its worth having.

HA is setup to send email and phone notifications, for example if my temp goes over 34 HA will send me an email and notify me through the phone app. you can also use events from things like google calendar as triggers, for example at a certain date you could switch the flower button and of you go, this would be useful if you are using dosage control and want to adjust EC targets over the cycle, or even regulate your PH swing through the day.

Remote access can be done a number of ways but I use the Nabu Casa service (they the same company as HA, $6 a month goes towards further HA development). I can easily access my HA from anywhere in the world and have complete control.

There is too much to really go into detail, but happy to answer any questions.

Some good watching:
Home Assistant
Mycodo

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Jaz

Curing
User ID
1379
Small aquarium pump circulates coolant through rad and lights, as it is mixed metal I am running anti corrosive car coolant. Water cooling is a little over the top but I have 260w of leds and am not running an AC for a 2x2
HX.png

Damn, that's impressive... and over the top, I love the ingenuity!

Here's an idea - create/buy a shroud to place over those radiator fans, something like this or a variation thereof (rectangular to circular duct):

Shroud.png

and attach your filter ducting onto the end of it - instant AC!

Oh yeah, make sure you place the shroud on the side of the fans that draws air, otherwise you'll be pumping hot air into the tent. 😆

You'd probably be able to do without running the coolant pump with the result.

If you're running both coolant and the shroud, it 'may' increase the temp of the rad as the intake air will be warm air from the tent but of course, since warm air is being pumped out of the tent, it should decrease the temp at the top of the tent, allowing for better heat exchange between the heatsinks on the LED and surrounding air temp - 'what you lose on the swings you gain on the roundabouts'

j
 
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Jaz

Curing
User ID
1379
tape.png

This is a bit dodgy.

The heat from the driver will cause the plasticisers in the tape to be released quicker, making the tape brittle and easier to crack. In the short term it may stretch from the heat.

You may turn up one day to find the driver on top of your tent; a good thing you have a lid on that coolant bucket. :LOL:

j
 

Madmick

Baked
User ID
2412
View attachment 24101

This is a bit dodgy.

The heat from the driver will cause the plasticisers in the tape to be released quicker, making the tape brittle and easier to crack. In the short term it may stretch from the heat.

You may turn up one day to find the driver on top of your tent; a good thing you have a lid on that coolant bucket. :LOL:

j
It pains me to say it , but yeah get rid of that tape , try hanging it
 

Secretchief

Vegetating
User ID
1502
It pains me to say it , but yeah get rid of that tape , try hanging it
Yea the res and mounting will change, some sort of tub on top incase of leaks etc.
In regards to the tape, it is kapton tape and good for a few hundred C so I wouldn't worry to much about that

Still getting my head around your AC idea Jaz, the way I see it is I have a 2c difference internal to external, no amount of air exchange will allow me to go below the air temp of the room and running hot air over the rad will also raise temp eventually.
so the only solution is active cooling, which becomes an issue with power draw and heat being pumped into the bedroom it is in, which of course means higher intake temp, more heat generated and everything goes to shit. If I can remove as much heat as possible, then I may be able to place a very small compressor inline and looping back to tent(I have a 50w camping fridge to try) and drop that last little bit. As the room never gets over 35 on the hottest days I could use co2 rather than active cooling and get the benefits of that. Probably cheaper in the end too.

I'm not always great at explaining things but ask away and I will break it down the best I can. The ledgardener videos are great to watch, has a whole series on how to set all this stuff up.
 

Jaz

Curing
User ID
1379
the way I see it is I have a 2c difference internal to external, no amount of air exchange will allow me to go below the air temp of the room and running hot air over the rad will also raise temp eventually.

By AC I mean Air 'Conditioning' not Air Cooling - extracting the warm air that sits at the top of the tent, where your have your filter situated and replacing it with air from outside the tent, even if it is only 2°C cooler. At night I imagine there is a greater difference?

What you currently have is heat exchangers sitting on top of your lights which are pumping out some heat but nothing is extracting all that warm air from your tent and the fans are just circulating that air around the tent - being winter that may be good for the plants if the temps at plant level are correct for what you're growing.

Your filter is passive with very little, if any air being pumped out of that duct; the filter will provide some resistance to airflow. Hooking up the radiator fans to that duct will help extract all that warm air from inside, you'll also need to open a vent at the bottom to intake air from outside.

I don't know your room layout but perhaps you could run a shroud and ducting on both upstream and downstream of the rad, running ducts outside your room for exhaust and a duct from outside, to the bottom of the tent for intake?

Just throwing out some ideas for your consideration and perhaps experimentation to see what temps you can get with differing configurations.

Oh yeah, depending on your external temp range throughout a 24 hour cycle, you may want to capitalise on that. i.e. have your ladies sleeping during the hottest part of the day (lights off keeping the temps down) and have the lights warming up the tent during the cold nights. In case you're not doing that already - you'd be surprised at how many don't realise that or for whatever reason, prefer to have their ladies asleep at the same time they go to bed.

j
 
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Secretchief

Vegetating
User ID
1502
Carbon filter has a fan, drawing through filter and exhausting out top, definitely would not run anything with no ventilation. maybe a bit hard to see in the pics. Water exchanges led heat to outside to reduce total amount of air exchange needed to keep inside cool, rad fans are purely to keep coolant in check and would not have close to the static pressure required to draw through carbon filter.
For the scheduling I am still working that out, I would like to be able to drop some temp at lights off and do my best work at night so I am thinking off from midnight to midday off. Currently I am off 12 to 4 am with min temp 22
 

Secretchief

Vegetating
User ID
1502
Even so I'd still remove the tape ,transformer needs to stay cool the tape will keep it warmer than needs to be
Yea the hanging rail actually sucks a surprising amount of heat but I will find something more elegant. Alot of this was slapped together from what I have on hand so definitely a few improvements to be made.
In a perfect world I would have a bigger tent and all the good stuff I could fit in it, but as a far as having fun, learning and problem solving hopefully this will give some ideas.
 

Jaz

Curing
User ID
1379
I will find something more elegant.

It comes with a solution built into the design - use washers to protect the slots.

tape.png

I don't know what the walls are made of but you could try mounting that to one of the walls.... and perhaps add in some spacers to allow air-flow in-between; may not need spacers if the walls transfer heat quickly.

j
 
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Secretchief

Vegetating
User ID
1502
It comes with a solution built into the design - use washers to protect the slots.

View attachment 24110

I don't know what the walls are made of but you could try mounting that to one of the walls.... and perhaps add in some spacers to allow air-flow in-between; may not need spacers if the walls transfer heat quickly.

j
They run up to 95c so I will find something eventually, the housing It is only at 40c so no rush and no real need to change.
 
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Secretchief

Vegetating
User ID
1502
Haha fuck this place is a good laugh sometimes.

Yea I get shrouds, but not really applicable here. The water is warm, I don't need heat, I have a proper exhaust which is cooling and humidity control, separate to rad which is a heater once fans or pump are stopped, already runs very cool with the fans barely spinning, if the rad was being cooled by exhaust there would be a slow creep in temp. Where is the AC action?
I have put a fair bit of thought into cooling, and it gets tricky at this scale
 
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